Hermès Leathers Explained: Togo, Epsom, Clemence, Swift and Box Calf — and Gold or Palladium Hardware (2026)
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The short answer: Togo and Taurillon Clemence are grained calfskins that feel soft and hide small scratches well; Clemence is often described as heavier and slouchier. Epsom has a pressed grain, keeps a crisp shape and is often described as lighter. Swift and Box calf are smooth leathers with rich colour, but scratches and water marks show more easily. Choose by how you will use the bag, then pick gold or palladium (silver) hardware by style. On a pre-owned bag, the corners, handles and shape tell you more than the leather name.
Which leathers are common in our Ginza stock?
We counted the leather named in the title of every Hermès bag on our overseas site on 5 November 2026 (165 bags). If a bag combines two leathers, it is counted under both.
| Leather | Bags in our stock | Mostly on |
|---|---|---|
| Taurillon Clemence | 61 | Picotin (41), Evelyne (18) |
| Togo | 46 | Birkin (37), Kelly (9) |
| Epsom | 19 | Constance (7), Mini Kelly (5), Kelly (5) |
| Swift | 12 | Picotin, Pochette Kelly, Birkin, Kelly (often mixed with canvas) |
| Chèvre (goatskin) | 7 | Constance, Bolide, Kelly |
| Box calf | 2 | Constance |
*Stock on 5 November 2026; it changes every day.* The pattern is simple: each model tends to come in a few typical leathers. If you want a Birkin, you will mostly be choosing between colours of Togo; if you want a Constance, mostly Epsom, Box calf or Chèvre.
Hermès leathers compared
| Leather | What it is | Surface | Shape over time | Weight (as often described) | Scratches and marks |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Togo | Grained calfskin | Natural, raised pebble grain, slight sheen | Soft, but holds its shape fairly well | Medium | Grain hides fine scratches |
| Epsom | Calfskin with an embossed (pressed) grain | Fine, even grain, slightly matte | Stiff; keeps crisp lines | Lighter | Resists everyday scratches; corners and edges can wear |
| Taurillon Clemence | Grained bull-calf leather | Larger, flatter grain than Togo | Soft; relaxes and slouches with use | Heavier | Grain hides marks; often said to dislike water |
| Swift | Smooth calfskin | Fine, smooth, soft; colours look vivid | Soft | Lighter | Scratches and small dents show more easily |
| Box calf | Smooth, polished calfskin | Glossy | Firm; develops a patina with use | Medium | Scratches and water marks show easily |
| Chèvre | Goatskin (e.g. Mysore, Chamkila) | Small, fine grain, soft sheen | Fairly firm | Lighter | Often described as durable |
These are general descriptions used widely in the resale market, not measurements. Two bags in the same leather can feel different depending on the year, colour and how they were used. Always look at the actual bag.
Togo
Togo is the usual leather for the Birkin in our stock (37 bags on 5 November 2026). Its natural grain makes it forgiving: light scratches blend into the texture. It is soft to the touch yet holds the shape of a Birkin or Kelly fairly well. On a pre-owned Togo bag, look at the handles and corners, where the grain can wear smooth and shiny, and check whether the sides have started to bulge.
Epsom
Epsom is a calfskin with a grain pressed into the surface, so the texture is regular and the leather is stiff. That makes it a natural match for structured bags such as the Constance and Mini Kelly, where clean lines matter. It is often described as lighter than Togo and easy to wipe clean. Because it is stiff, the corners and folded edges are where wear shows first, so ask for close-up photos of them.
Taurillon Clemence (often called "TC")
Clemence comes from bull calves and has a larger, flatter grain than Togo. It is soft and drapes, which is why it is common on relaxed bags like the Picotin and Evelyne. It is often described as heavier than Togo and as slouching more over time; on a Picotin or Evelyne, many people like that relaxed look. It is often said to be sensitive to water, so avoid rain where you can.
Swift
Swift is smooth and soft with a fine surface that shows colour richly. The trade-off is that scratches, nail marks and small dents show more easily than on grained leathers. Light scratches on a used Swift bag are normal; check that they match the condition rank.
Box calf
Box calf is the classic smooth, glossy leather. It is firm and takes on a patina — a deeper shine — with use, which many collectors enjoy. Scratches and water marks show easily. If you want a bag that keeps a "like new" look, inspect the surface under light before you buy.
Togo or Epsom: which should you choose?
This is a common question in the forums we studied, and both are good choices. Think about how you will carry the bag:
- Choose Togo if you like a softer feel, a natural grain and a bag that is forgiving with small scratches. In our stock it is the usual leather for the Birkin.
- Choose Epsom if you want sharp lines, a lighter bag and easy cleaning. In our stock it is common on the Constance, Mini Kelly and some Kelly 25s.
- Both exist for the Kelly 25, so you can compare them side by side in store.
Gold or palladium hardware?
Hermès hardware is plated metal. Japanese listings usually say "gold hardware" or "silver hardware"; "silver" here means the silver-tone palladium finish.
- Gold looks warmer and dressier. Many people pair it with black (Noir), Etoupe and brown tones.
- Palladium (silver) looks cooler and easier to wear every day. Many people pair it with grey, blue and pastel colours.
- Champagne gold is a paler gold that appears on some bags.
In our bag stock on 5 November 2026, 102 bags had silver (palladium) hardware, 54 had gold and 8 had champagne gold. By leather: Togo 25 silver / 17 gold / 4 champagne gold; Epsom 11 gold / 8 silver; Clemence 40 silver / 19 gold.
On any pre-owned bag, look at the plating on the lock, clasp, feet and buckles: plated hardware can show fine scratches or wear with use. Some owners keep the protective film on new hardware; ask whether it is still there.
What to check on a pre-owned bag, by leather
- Corners (all leathers): rubbing or colour loss. On Epsom and Box calf this shows more clearly.
- Handles (Togo, Clemence): darkening or a smooth, shiny grain where hands hold it.
- Shape (Togo, Clemence): bulging sides or a sagging base. Some softening is normal; ask how the bag sits on a table.
- Surface (Swift, Box calf): scratches, dents and water spots under light.
- Edges (Epsom, Box calf): cracks in the edge paint along folds.
- Hardware: scratches on the plating.
- Inside: pen or make-up marks, and any smell.
- Light colours: colour transfer, for example from denim.
Then compare what you see with the condition rank. On our English pages we use New, Unused item, Used super beautiful condition, Used condition, Used Good Product and Sign of use. Every item at LUXARIA is authenticated before sale, and our site explains that inspections are always done by more than one person, with only items that pass 50 or more checks listed.
How to care for Hermès leather
- Store the bag upright, lightly stuffed, in its dust bag, away from direct sunlight.
- Avoid very humid places and airtight plastic bags. Japan's summers are humid, so let the bag breathe.
- Keep it away from rain where you can, especially Clemence, Swift and Box calf. If it gets wet, blot gently with a soft dry cloth and let it dry naturally, away from heaters.
- Do not try household creams or cleaners on an expensive bag without advice; colours and finishes react differently.
- For repairs or deeper care, ask a specialist. Hermès also accepts repairs through its stores; conditions and waiting times vary.
Buying at LUXARIA
LUXARIA is a pre-owned luxury store in Ginza 7-chome, a 5-minute walk from Ginza Station (11:30–20:00), focusing on Hermès bags. Staff speak English and Chinese, and you can compare several leathers side by side in store. Online prices on global.luxaria.jp are export prices without Japanese consumption tax; import duties are paid by the recipient, and we do not accept returns after purchase, so please ask about any bag before you order. In store, eligible items are tax-free through our tax-free counter (bring your passport).
- Message us on WhatsApp with an item number WhatsApp or WeChat (luxaria_ginza).
- See our pre-owned Hermès in stock
- Choosing a Constance? Read our Constance guide See stock
FAQ
Togo or Epsom: which should I choose?
Togo is softer with a natural grain that hides small scratches; Epsom is stiffer, keeps sharp lines and is often described as lighter. Choose by the look and feel you prefer.
Which Hermès leathers resist scratches well?
Grained leathers such as Togo, Clemence and Epsom generally hide everyday scratches better than smooth Swift or Box calf. Corners and edges still wear on every leather.
Does Clemence slouch?
It is often described as softer and heavier than Togo, so a Clemence bag tends to relax over time. On bags like the Picotin and Evelyne, many people like that look.
Is "silver hardware" the same as palladium?
In Japanese listings, "silver hardware" usually means Hermès's silver-tone palladium finish. Ask the store if you are unsure about a specific item.
Gold or palladium hardware?
It is a matter of style. Gold looks warmer and dressier; palladium looks cooler and more casual. In our stock on 5 November 2026, silver (palladium) was more common.
What does "TC" mean?
"TC" is short for Taurillon Clemence, a soft, grained bull-calf leather used often on the Picotin and Evelyne.
